All posts by Danny Bernstein

About Danny Bernstein

I'm a hiker, hike leader for the Carolina Mountain Club and Friends of the Smokies and an outdoor writer.

Hawai’i Volcano National Park – Finally

National Parks
HAVO sulphur springs

Finally Hawai’i Volcano National Park (HAVO) on the Big Island of Hawaii www.nps.gov/havo

As I said in my last blog, the last time I was on the Big Island of Hawaii was 21 years ago – December 1995. The national parks were closed because the Republicans decided to have a show-down with Pres Bill Clinton –  Lenny and I never got to see the crater or any features of HAVO.

But I’m in Hilo now, the big city closest to Volcanoes NP with my son and family. The first day, we got to the park at 8:30, before the Visitor Center opened. So we started hiking. True to its name, the main attraction is the crater. We took the Crater Rim Trail past steam vents and through a jungle of trees and vines. OK. The park doesn’t call it a jungle, but a tropical rain forest.

Overlooks had been place strategically so we could stare at the huge volcano below. It seemed endless.

HAVO active volcano

After about 2.5 miles, we reached the Jaggar Museum within an observatory. This is where we saw the volcano still burning. The park had placed a couple of telescopes so we could see the fire at close range. Though it was so, so far away, it was pretty impressive. You can’t see it in the photo but the fire is there.

The museum grounds were crowded with people who drove right to the overlook. As soon as we started back, the people disappeared.

When we reached the visitor center about noon, the place was a proverbial madhouse. The rangers and volunteers were doing crowd control and trying to answer simple questions without being too short. But it was difficult.

The park film was a disappointment. It focused on safety around the lava and volcanoes. Stay away from the hot stuff, basically. It never told me anything about the park itself. After that, it was gridlock on the road and around the buildings.

Second day at Volcanoes National Park. We started early again and drove the Chain of Craters road to the Lava Tubes parking area. First, we walked the Kilauea Iki Trail, down to the crater. Though it erupted in 1959, all seems to be quiet now, at least quiet enough for hikers to walk a four-mile loop.

The trail starts and ends in a rain forest but the highlight is the black, black lava rock. Steam vents are still active but the trail keeps away from them. Since so few people were in the crater this early, we made some friends.

In the HAVO lava tubes

By the time we walked back up to the rim, bus and family groups were meeting us to start down. When we reached the top, we crossed the road to take in the Thurston Lava Tube.

In a half-mile, you walk into a tunnel that had been created by lava, now well solidified. The park had installed lights so you really didn’t need a flashlight.

We spent the rest of the day driving and stopping on the Chain of Craters Road. And that’s what it was – crater after crater, each with its own characteristic. At the end of the road, you meet the sea with an impressive sea arch. Another four miles of walking (one way) would have taken us to see molten lava. But none of us felt like starting an eight-mile round trip hike after lunch.

We could have used another couple of days in this park.

Big Island Historic Parks

Hiking, National Parks, State Parks

In 1995, Lenny and I went to the Big island of Hawaii for the first time. We, of course, had booked our flights and lodging months in advance. But our government decided to forego a budget. Therefore the national parks were closed. We managed to walk a few minor trails in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park but never really knew about the historic parks.

Temple in PUHE

I’m making up for lost time and opportunity and dragging my family to the three historical parks on the west coast of the Big Island.

Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site protects a Hawaiian temple, one of the major sacred structure built in Hawaii before Europeans came.

It also introduces visitors to Kamehameha, the warrior, who united all the Hawaiian Islands under his rule, of course. Besides a half-mile loop through the protected area, there’s not much to do.

Staff at PUHE

But a poster in the visitor center caught my eye. There was a picture of every staff member that works in this park – from park ranger to the folks to manage the bookstore.

Now, what if the Smokies did this?

South of Kona on the Big Island lies the Captain Cook monument. Captain James Cook (1728-1779) was a British explorer and a navy man. He was the first European to visit the Hawaiian islands.

First the Polynesians welcomed him but by Cook’s third visit, he was no longer the “White God”. Tensions arose and he was killed by Hawaiians villagers near present-day Kona.

Captain Cook monument

In the late 1800s, a monument was put up on the bay where Cook met his demise. Several other groups have put up plaques in his honor. This website explains how to find the trailhead.

You can only get there by boat or by a steep 1.8 mile trail. On the way, we saw goats, a lost cow and several weasels. Most people who hike down plan to spend the day snorkeling but we just wanted to do the hike.

I don’t know why this monument isn’t more accessible. After all, Cook was a pretty famous explorer in the Pacific.

Maybe in the late 1800s, there was still animosity toward Europeans or maybe no one really cares.

Diamond Head – a classic

Hiking, State Parks
Climbing Diamond Head

Our last day in Honolulu – and I hadn’t climbed up Diamond Head yet.

The hike is less than two miles round trip, but climbs over 550 feet – up, up, up. By now, my son, Neil, and family had arrived to join me on this Hawaii vacation.

We drove out to Diamond Head State Monument before 8:30, a late start for us. How naive! On Christmas Day, all the parking spaces closest to the trailhead were already taken.

We left my daughter-in-law with seven-year old Isa to study the exhibits at the visitor center and turned back down to find a parking space. We climbed an extra couple of hundred feet and reunited. The five of us started climbing.

The route starts as a paved path, then turn to a hard-pack trail – all continuously up. We’re marching like ants: frustrated runners, slow-poke women in sandals, sneakered families and couples carrying babies in their arms or backs.

Then the stairs, tunnel and more steep stairs. The crowd is so orderly and polite. People are constantly apologizing for passing or for being too slow. By the time we get toward the top, there are lookouts and picture-taking opportunities.

Finally the top where groups are taking pictures of each other and the view. And what a view! Downtown Honolulu, the ocean, and Koko Head, where I had been several days ago. Reluctantly, we all started down the same way we came up.

Where did this trail come from?

Diamond Head was an ideal site for coastal defense of O’ahu. The Federal Government started fortifications in 1908. They built the trail for men and mules to bring building supplies and access. Now it’s managed by the Hawaii State Parks and, unlike Koko Head, is maintained.